Most drywall works are usually tasks that require skill and a great experience. Often, drywall work is accompanied by engineering drawings and designs aimed at creating a finished product that has a certain appearance and ability to withstand various physical conditions, for example, niches, shelves or plasterboard buffets that need to bear weight, not to mention plasterboard ceilings, where the importance for the safety and durability of the ceiling, is very high.
Alongside all these, there are simple works that, in our opinion, every person, having a pair of good hands-or more, if you have help, can perform them.
The staff of the “Center for gypsum work”, wrote for you the complete guide to the construction of drywall. We are sure that strict adherence to the steps listed, can bring absolutely impressive results and the way to save money too.
Set the goal
Even before starting work and before planning, one should stop and think, whether we can perform the work. Entering complex work can cost you money, and even more serious, a waste of time and frustration. That is why we propose to examine each work for its own merits by asking deliberate questions:
Is there in the gypsum work some kind of safety element – if the answer is positive, seriously consider an invitation from an experienced professional? Installing a plasterboard ceiling, for example, requires a safety helmet with great responsibility and I am the last one to advise you to do it yourself for reasons that are clear to all of us and for the safety of the tenants in your home.
Design with plasterboard or simple plasterboard work-imagine what is the complexity of the work. Are there many angles, cuts and the like. If the answer is positive, you will require considerable experience in the field and it is often better to just hire a professional plaster man.
What experience you have – before each start of work, you should ask yourself whether you have the necessary knowledge. Guides of this type can certainly help you and guide you but at the end of the day, there must be an Outline between the requirements and the performance of the plaster installer. For example, gypsum work in the living room usually requires skill and professionalism since it is Cuts and finishes that require experience – unlike simpler gypsum work.
In general and for clarity, we are one of the adherents of the “Do It Yourself” method and love to learn new things ourselves. You can do certain gypsum work yourself, save a lot of money, and most importantly – be proud of your work. Despite this, all factors should be taken into account and if there is a sufficient safety concern regarding the stability of the wall, ceiling or any other gypsum work, as well as a fear that something may go wrong, we strongly recommend that you contact a professional to perform gypsum work. These are the kind of jobs that are very easy to get into but things can get complicated. This should be avoided.
Important points for reference
- It’s time to emphasize that the use of gypsum for performing various works is intended solely for internal use. Gypsum is not resistant to external conditions and therefore we will use it only in closed places that are not exposed to weather hazards. Water-resistant panels can be used but these are not standard gypsum boards so the treatment may be slightly different.
- Pipes, electricity, water, gas – before starting work, locate power points, communication lines, water or sewage. Check that there is no “collision” between the existing pipes and infrastructure and the drywall that you are about to establish. Also, during the work, you will need to drill holes in the wall and ceiling. You need to make sure that no infrastructure or transmission line is damaged from these works.
- If you want to install points or power switches in the drywall, you should consult with a qualified electrician.
- This guide refers to the construction of drywall in a place where it can be attached to strong and stable surfaces – a wall and ceiling made of concrete and/or blocks.
Note-If you want to repair drywall and not necessarily build a new wall, we advise you to use the manual for fixing drywall.
Construction of drywall-the necessary materials
Having defined the goals and decided that we can build drywall, just before you run to the nearest building material store, let’s get acquainted with the materials and tools we need. In general, all these materials are cheap and very easy to get in the various construction centers and I’m not talking about “home center” and his friends. If you want to build drywall at reasonable costs, it’s time to get acquainted with those building material centers that are found in every city, usually in industrial areas. A short search on Google or gold pages will provide you with a list of businesses that hold all the necessary equipment in one place and at affordable prices.
Rails (also called track) – as a rule, rails, and stands, are used by us for the construction of the skeleton on which the gypsum boards will be assembled. The skeleton must be strong enough to bear the weight. The rails are tin rods
Different lengths are built in the form of” H ” as can be seen in the attached photo.
Extras-the extras are very similar to rails, except for their slightly different shape and which gives them increased strength. The extras, like the rails, are also made of tin. They are very light and strong especially when
Complex in the correct form as we will see below. The difference between the rails and the stands is expressed in the slight bending at the edges of the stands. In the rails, there is no such bending.
Screws and dibels – this is completely ordinary screws and dibels – usually to the 8th degree. Ask the seller in the building materials store, he will know exactly what will suit you. The screws
Will be used by us for connecting the rails to the walls and ceiling. These connections have a high significance since they are the ones that will determine among other things the strength and stability of the drywall being built.
Tin screws-tin screws are very cheap and are used to connect the stands to the rails in order to build a stable construction.
Gypsum screws-the the gypsum screws are similar in color to the tin screws (usually black) but are longer. The gypsum screws, as their name is-are used by us for the connection of the gypsum boards to the Foundation, a construction we have built.
Acrylic glue – in order to avoid drilling in a ceramic or porcelain floor, acrylic materials can be used to connect the rails to the floor, so if we decide in the future to remove the wall, we can do this without leaving irreparable damage to the floor. It is necessary to consult with the sales representative in order to choose the most suitable material. The use of acrylic glue is pointwise and does not come to replace the use of screws in the walls and ceiling.
Silicone-acrylic silicone is used for waterproofing and insulation. In gypsum work, it is desirable to use silicone in order to prevent the ingress of water from the floor and therefore we will use it for the protection of gypsum boards when washing the floor and the like.
Papers for gypsum-papers for gypsum look like white and thick adhesive paper-only without the glue. These are paper rolls that will be used by us, with the help of the American putty, to cover the connections between the gypsum boards and create a clean and uniform appearance.
Corners for plasterboard-the corners for plasterboard are similar in Maran to the gypsum paper, except that they are more expensive and complex among other things from two aluminum bars in the folding, creating an angle that protects the corners of the wall we built (if there are corners) from damage of objects or people who encounter the corner of the wall (you will be surprised to hear how much it happens). In addition, these corners give the wall a luxurious and eye-catching finish. Connecting these corners will do with the help of an American trowel.
American putty-an ointment-like substance used for smoothing walls and, as it was written, for gluing the corners and papers on gypsum boards.
Gypsum boards – how can you perform gypsum work without gypsum boards? Gypsum boards come in a variety of colors that indicate their properties. You can read about the different types in the manual for gypsum works. In general, in gypsum works at home, we will need white or red gypsum (I prefer red since it is fireproof). If it is about gypsum work in the bathroom or places with moisture, we will use green gypsum that is resistant to moisture conditions. In any case, you must remember that no gypsum board is suitable for direct contact with water.
Insulated material-insulated material such as mineral wool and similar ones is very essential for good insulation of noises and temperature. The insulating material comes in the form of a cylinder and should be assembled between the gypsum boards (in the construction we built, in the space between the gypsum boards). There are insulated materials coated with foil. These rollers are recommended for increased insulation-mainly in roofs.
Required working tools
Hammer-it is impossible without a hammer, among other things for setting the dibels in the walls and ceiling.
Drill-with the help of the drill, we will create holes in the walls and ceiling for installing the screws that connect the construction to the walls and ceiling. In addition, you will need a drill corresponding to the size of the screws.
Screw-the screw is used by us to screw the screws – both the screws that connect the foundation to the walls and ceiling, and the screws of the gypsum board to connect the boards to the infrastructure we have built, and to mount the foundation itself.
straight -want the wall to be straight? So are we. Working with a spirit level will ensure that the drywall we are building will be straight. The use of levels is necessary primarily at the stage of infrastructure construction. If she is straight, everything will be straight.
Meter-with the help of the meter, we can effectively measure and mark the parts that need to be cut or added, Both if it comes to rails, stands or gypsum boards.
Cutting knife – Japanese knife more precisely, will serve us for successful cutting of gypsum boards.
Ruler-anything that can help you keep a straight line when you cut the gypsum boards. You can improvise and use either the level or one of the rails you purchased.
Tin numbers-the stands and rails come in standard size so we’ll have to adjust to the dimensions of the drywall we’re building. Tin numbers will do the trick. At this point I recommend not to get carried away and purchase professional and expensive scissors. Most likely, you will not use them frequently and therefore the simple type is quite enough (as long as it is new).
Silicone gun – silicone gun is used by us for applying/dispersing silicon and / or the acrylic material used for gluing to the floor.
Marker-with its help we will mark the parts that need to be cut from gypsum boards, stands or rails. Also, with the help of the marker, we can mark points in the wall and ceiling that were drilled for the installation of the dibels and screws.
Trowel (spatula) – a very indispensable tool for gluing of gypsum papers and corners. It is also used for smoothing and concealing the holes formed in the gypsum screws when we connected the gypsum boards to the infrastructure/construction.
Fine emery paper – through it we will Sand the remnants of the putty after drying and smooth the wall.
Accents for safety work
People tend to ignore safety accents, especially when it comes to their private home. No wonder then that most accidents with severe injuries occur precisely at home. Remember that your health is more important than any work. Take care of it and take any safety measures that you think. Remember that safety rules were unfortunately written in the blood. I recommend among other things the following steps:
The ladder-the ladder must be high enough, strong and stable enough. Ask another person to hold the ladder and secure you.
Goggles – often when cutting or drilling, metal and stone parts fly. These parts can penetrate the eye and it is absolutely unpleasant. Goggles that cost a single number of shekels can protect you.
Safety shoes-be is sure to wear closed safety shoes.
Gloves – working gloves will protect you from cuts and chips.
Helmet-the strictest among us will keep a suitable work helmet
People tend to ignore safety accents, especially when it comes to their private homes. No wonder then that most accidents with severe injuries occur precisely at home. Remember that your health is more important than any work.
Building the drywall
Before we begin to build the drywall, we must take safety measures. Scour and locate possible hazards and dangers. It may be electrical or furniture points that may be damaged. In any case, turn and prepare the working area. The more the work area will be arranged and the more you plan the work and necessary solutions, the more pleasant, easy, efficient and safe it will be to work.
Installation of rails
The rails will be the first part we will assemble. It is important to remember that they must be most tightly fixed to the walls, ceiling and floor. Their strength will be the key to the stability of the wall.
In order to do so, mark the place on which the rails will be installed. Use the level to ensure a perfectly straight installation. In addition, use the meter so that we can cut the rails to the dimensions we need.
Determine the connection points on top of the wall and ceiling and start drilling with blocks and concrete. After you have finished, install the dibels to the walls and attach the rails to the wall and ceiling using screws that will be screwed into the dibels.
Note: the rails do not have holes for screws, so you will have to drill holes in them in the desired places. In general and depending on the strength of the wall, screws should be set every 40 centimeters to a value.
The connection of the rails to the floor can be done using screws or using a suitable acrylic material so that it does not do any damage to the floor and will not leave marks if we decide one day to remove the wall. The acrylic material must be dispersed in a generous amount with the help of a silicone gun or any other suitable device that will be offered to you at the hardware store. Observe the instructions for use since it is required to wait until the acrylic material dries before continuing the work.
At this point, we actually created a frame that consists of rails. In this, we will assemble the stands to create a foundation/construction for installing the gypsum boards below.
Assembling the extras
Having established the frame, we will begin to combine in it the perpendicular. First it is necessary to measure and cut exact dimensions with the help of tin numbers. After we have cut, we can assemble the vertices by inserting the perpendicular edge into the rails as seen in the photo. To definitively connect the tracks and stands, we will use the tin screws. These screws are able to drill their way through the various tin parts and they create extremely strong connections.
To make it clear how to assemble the perpendicular, look at the attached image and see that they are perpendicular at a distance of about 40 centimeters from each other vertically.
Once we have mounted the stands horizontally, they must be strengthened again and the substrate by mounting the stands horizontally. Cut the desired dimensions and combine the perpendicular parts inside the perpendicular rails that you assembled even earlier vertically. Connect them with the familiar tin screws until you get a foundation consisting of cubes or rectangles. It is recommended to connect the stands to a multilevel shape-see an attached picture.
Congratulations. You built the construction on which the drywall sat. Before continuing the work, make sure the stability and strength of the structure you have built. If you have worked according to what has been written so far, there should not be a problem and you will notice that the skeleton is very stable. If there is a problem and the construction is unstable, stop and see what the problem is.
Mounting gypsum boards
For my taste, assembling the panels in drywall, is one of the easier tasks described in this guide.
In order to do this, you need to measure the coverage areas, that is, the skeleton frame.
After you have measured, you will most likely be able to start assembling whole boards on top of the snow and only after that you will have to cut out parts of the boards in order to fit them into the remaining spaces. Try to cut the boards wisely so that you maximally take advantage of the raw materials.
The gypsum boards we will cut with the help of a Japanese knife. A straight groove at a depth of several millimeters should suffice since a slight bending of the grooved board will perfectly complement the work.
Connecting the gypsum plates to the construction will be done with the help of gypsum screws that will be screwed using a screwdriver. The screws will be located at distances of about 25 centimeters from each other. Quite a bit of strength in order for the gypsum screws to penetrate the gypsum board and the stands and rails and thus connect them. Note that the screws form a kind of dents on the gypsum board. Don’t worry. This is a natural process and later we will smooth out these depressions with the help of American putty.
Points for reference
In order for the cutting to be straight, it is necessary to use a ruler on which we will lean the knife while cutting. It is advisable to use a straight and long body such as a spirit level or one of the perpendicular/rails.
The boards must be measured in the exact way given in order to avoid too much space between the boards.
Mounting panels should be completed on only one side since we need to place the insulated material even before closing the other side.
Insulated material is very necessary for creating a quality drywall that will effectively isolate noise and maintain room temperature.
After installing only one side, we will lay out the insulation material we purchased and place it adjacent to the assembled board, between the stands and rails, evenly and perfectly.
After laying the insulating material, you will return to the previous step and connect the gypsum boards on the other side of the wall.
Congratulations! You have installed drywall yourself! Now all that remains is to give it a uniform and rich finish.
Smoothing the voids between the gypsum boards and installing corners
After you have assembled the gypsum boards, you will notice the connections between the boards as well as the sockets formed from the connection of the screws. To give a smooth and rich finish to our wall, an American putty is applied in the spaces between the panels. Apply a generous amount but not too much since too thick layers of putty have difficulty drying.
Having smeared the putty, we will place the gypsum paper in the connections that we want to make disappear-between the boards and between the drywall and the ceiling. At this point, the American putty is used to glue the gypsum paper. Glue the paper well and gently tighten it with the help of the spatula (trowel). Remove leftover American putty (there will be quite a few leftovers).
Gluing the corners is carried out in a very similar way. Apply the American putty on the corners (if there are) and glue the corners while folding them to create an angle of 90 degrees. Gently tighten with the spatula and remove American putty residue.
The sockets formed from the penetration of the screws, we will smooth the American putty in the simplest way with the help of the spatula.
After drying the putty (usually after a few hours – depending on the weather), we will check whether there are places where the filling material has sunk. If so, you need to apply another layer of American putty.
After the final drying, we will Sand the wall with the help of sanding paper. Polishing should be of weak to medium intensity, using rotational movements. Starting from the outside of the patch and going inside into the patch focus we made, until you get a perfectly smooth surface.
In conclusion, after the end of the grinding of the excess American putty, check if there are any additional places that require repair or polishing. Be strict because polishing problematic spots after painting the wall, almost impossible. Try to look at the wall in daylight from several angles. If the wall is smooth and no connections are visible, the wall can be painted with a roller or brush.