Apple tree pruning how to

Apple trees are among the most widely adapted and rewarding fruit trees you can grow. There are literally hundreds of varieties, with one or more suited to almost every climate. To remain healthy and productive, however, apple trees must be pruned (trimmed and shaped) each year. Apples bear their fruit on small spurs, which are compact shoots that form along larger branches. The spurs can remain productive for more than 10 years. Proper pruning keeps the spurs productive throughout the tree and replaces the unproductive limbs.

Don’t be anxious about pruning your apple tree. In most cases, any pruning is better than none. Follow the ‘how to’ guidelines outlined here, and your tree will remain healthy and productive. Even if you make a few mistakes, you’re unlikely to really damage the tree.

Training and Pruning

Apple trees, especially varieties grown on dwarf rootstock, are usually trained to a central leader, or main trunk. This method is called central-leader training. The leader is allowed to dominate, and the overall tree form looks something like a pyramid. (Peach trees, in contrast, are usually trained to a vase-shape, where the tree develops five or six main limbs and remains open in the center.) Do the major pruning in winter when trees are dormant. Prune in summer only to maintain size or remove diseased limbs.

The Benefits of Pruning an apple tree

It increases yield and improves the quality of the harvest. Pruning keeps the entire tree productive and gives you larger, better-looking fruit.

Pruning makes fruit easier to harvest. Pruning branches to keep the tree compact helps keep the fruit within easy reach.

Pruning helps control insects and diseases. Air circulates better within a well-pruned tree, which reduces the likelihood of disease. The tree is also easier to spray. Removing diseased or insect-damaged branches helps prevent infection and infestation from spreading.

Pruning strengthens the tree. Pruning helps the tree develop a strong framework that can handle the weight of its crop and endure the stresses caused by the elements.

Pruning creates a more attractive tree. A healthy, well-pruned tree simply looks better.

How to cut

Before you get started, it’s important to understand the basic pruning cuts and how plants respond to them. There are two types of pruning cuts: thinning cuts and heading cuts.
Thinning cuts remove entire branches or limbs, paring them back to their point of origin or the juncture where they meet another branch. Thinning opens the interior of the plant to receive more sunlight and channels energy into the remaining branches. In most cases, thinning enhances the natural shape of a plant. The thinning cut is the preferred type of cut for pruning apple trees.

Heading cuts are made anywhere along the length of a branch or limb to produce more vigorous growth below the cut. This growth is often weakly attached, however, with narrow angles that form between the original branch and the new growth. Heading cuts are necessary when pruning young trees, as explained below. Because mature trees seldom need lots of new branches, heading cuts are made less frequently as the tree ages.

cutting a tree branch

The Right Tools

You’ll need the following tools to prune an apple tree:

Pruning cuts by year

Pruning a Young Tree. The goal with a young tree is to develop evenly spaced “scaffold” limbs that will grow off the main leader. The scaffolds will be the main branches of the tree. You select them at the beginning of the tree’s growth, then they support later growth (shoots that grow off the scaffolds). Correct scaffold selection and placement helps ensure that the tree’s crown isn’t too dense and that the center of the tree receives adequate sunlight. It also makes harvest easier. Another goal of pruning is to remove any limbs that compete with the central leader or with your selected scaffolds.